Help & Support

So i had did the normal changeable grip hoffman lower but crack sooner then i’d like, seen what people said and it was to switch to the one with built in grip with that being the reason mine cracked where it did. So for 1 i couldn’t figure out how to do the support enforcers so ended up doing my own, not happy with them especially with one breaking during print, if anyone knows how to and can help me with that would mean a lot. and 2 does this print look good to go, i feel like looks great everywhere besides the 2 spots show like under the trigger hole, it also came out a bit stringy which normally don’t happen so kinda looks messy with me not getting it all out yet but either way let me know any thoughts or help y’all got, thank you!

With AB1263 going into effect on 1/1/26 in the brilliant think tank of California, will Aves Rails be subject to this? Can they be shipped as "assorted milled metal parts?" Haven't seen anything on their website about it yet.

I have a hoffman sl9 running in the bambu as I type. Whats some preferred tips and tricks for annealing. Ive heard the obvious temp and time. Do I leave the supports on while its cooking? thanks.

oh yeah, FUCK Reddit.

Was talking with a few people about the UBAR3 and using a M5 nut in a recessed pocket for the grip screw. Looking at the files there are about ten different versions of the UBAR3 but I couldn't find anything about the differences? The file names are clear as mud.

Hey guys, I’ve just completed my first prints. The top surfaces and sides came out really good, but the undersides came out a little rough. Especially where supports were, what’s the accepted standards for cleaning these areas up? Sandpaper, files, dremel?

What settings should I be looking at to make my next prints even better in these areas?

My setup: Qidi xplus3 Sunlu PLA + 2.0 (using its default filament profile in orca) @ 230/60 300blkfde’s orca/machine settings. 12 walls, 80% infill. Layer height: .2 Support distances: .19

I appreciate the feedback!

I was wondering what can be done to fix this issue with my fgc 9? Using the hickory hills bolt and barrel.

Hi, so im trying to print the milglockee 43x. Turned out pretty good except one set of text didn’t turn out. Any advice I’d greatly appreciate it. I just got a new Bambu a1.

I've had good luck using default settings until printing tall boys. I know doing two at once probably isn't the best idea but it did help to show that my issue presents itself when there is a drastic drop in layer time.

Using orca, any recommendations for setting fan speed@ height when using PLA plus?

Issue has ONLY occurred when printing tall mags, close to 250mm tall.

I've been working on printing up a Nylaug, but my KAK barrel doesnt fit through the front hole, measuring the step file, it's 22.86mm. Unfortunately I didn't catch the dimensions of my barrel because I didn't have my good caliper with me, but from the minimum specs image, the largest diameter on the barrel is 0.960 inches, or 24.38mm. Has anyone else who built a Nylaug had to open up the receiver channel more after printing? is my KAK barrel just out of spec?

Currently working on the Modelo Polylactico and was wondering if anyone else had a good solution for sanding the longer Intermediate shells. I had no issues using a 6mm drill bit + painters tape shim as a mandrel for the Beginner 209 shells, but the Intermediates don't have enough surface area or depth due to their smaller holes to stay on the other smaller drill bits I've tried. I suppose I could force/tap an M2 or M3 screw into the top powder hole but would widening the hole cause issues if its sealed well?

I also noticed that the shell models had inconsistent rim thicknesses in Orca.

• Headspace gauge/jig rim: 1.8mm thick
• Intermediate .355 rim: 1.6mm thick
• Beginner 209 slug and shotshell rims: 1.2mm thick

Obviously there would be an issue if the 1.2mm rims were used to headspace, preventing the thicker shells from loading, but wouldn't too much headspace also cause trouble like light strikes and case bulge/FTEs?

Anyone know of an assembly guide or video for Killo's 22/45? I tried using the mkiii 22/45 guide since someone said that helped, but I'm really dumb. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I have a P-10C and usually have to wait for mags to ship out (at least in my case), and that's really annoying. So, I want to try to push some development towards them, but I suppose I was hoping to get some ideas for what routes might be worth considering.

When looking at other projects, tavelkyosoba shared some of the design considerations for the M&P tmags, and SevenPerforce shared an idea on shifting the feed geometry for the p320 mag. I saw metal inserts as a consideration but that seems to be unpopular/suboptimal.

My plan is to try to implement whatever may be possible from these ideas and tweak and revise some stuff as needed. But before I do:

Does anybody have any p10-specific ideas, general ideas for printing when the mags are supposed to be the thin metal ones, or any other helpful input? I'll slam my head against the wall regardless but figured it'd be good to reach out so my CTE is minimized.

Working on getting my MP22k from GCI running. Basic firing function (stripping rounds, chambering, and firing) is working fine but I'm having some issues with cycling. The biggest problem at the moment is ejection. From what I can tell, extraction is reliable but the casing isn't being properly kicked out through the ejection port. This results in a jam every shot or two. The manual says to start by removing material from the inside of the extractor arm so that it grips the casing more tightly, which I have done but I'm still having the same problem. My current plan is to continue incrementally removing material but I wanted to check if anyone had some experience or insight. Any tips appreciated.

Anyone run into FTE stovepipe issues with the Phantom Pup?

I am running a FM-15 with a 16" barrel and Sylvan arms AGB on it.

Recently started to get stovepipes every few rounds.

I checked the extractor and the pin etc is intact.

Reaching out to FM about it they definitely indicated that it would only reliably work with their dedicated lower or the FM pic rail adapter.

Has anyone seen the stl file for this skeletonized version of the waffle mag? This image is included with the collection but no such files are there.

Does anyone still have the ACR Solidworks files from AMSD on GrabCAD( https://grabcad.com/amsd-1/models)? They were taken down.

Anyone still have these? https://guncadindex.com/detail/M18-CAD:f got taken down

The .pdf says "Close the mount and drive the m4x50 screw through all three pieces and secure on the backside with a nut." I don't see anywhere to secure a nut, also the M4x50 is extremely long for the hole. I don't see anywhere to secure a hex nut inside the latch, and the hole inside does not go through. It is completely solid on the other side. Not sure how I'd secure the button in there, has anyone remixed this or figured this out? apologies for the 'tism on this..

How's it going guys,

I'm getting ready to build out a Nylaug, and I am confused about the options for the Trunnions. I wanted to buy an aluminum trunnion from 3dprintfreedom or Riptide Rails. In the Riptide Rails description, it says it is best used with the "Standard" receiver. Now I am confused about which is the "Standard" receiver, and if the 3dprintfreedom is the same case. My question is whether or not if its for the SURPLUS stock or the SEMI Auto stock?

Thank you

So I'm trying to see if I messed up or not. My hopes are high but I downloaded the "MAC Super Safety System" off odysee. I ordered from send cut send around 14 trip bars, 10 out of SS304 and 4 out of titanium.

The folder structure has led me to believe that this trip bar will work with the MacDaddy AND DB9 Alloy because of the read me file in there that says the following:

"-This DB Alloy remix ONLY works with the sheet metal trip bar design, not the printed trip bar (due to limited space in the lower design).

-The remixed designs included here were tested within beta. There are extra trunnions and different remixed lowers on the Phoenix Designworks Odysee page for those interested in other lowers not officially tested within the beta for this release."

This is not in the original phoenix designworks folder anywhere and the fact that it says "ONLY works with the sheet metal trip bar design, not the printed trip bar" tells me that it should work with the DB9 alloy as there is no printed trip bar in the phoenox designworks folder at all.

I also swear I remember seeing on r/Fosscad that people were using the MAC Super Safety System with the DB9 alloy but obviously I can't check because it's gone now.

If anyone has any information please let me know or else I'm just gonna dive into this blind and hope it works.

Sup yall,

I’m looking for some help on getting some print settings for PET-CF. I picked myself up a roll of the Polymaker Fiberon PET-CF17 and I’m looking to make an SL-308 lower out of it eventually. Currently on a Bambu P1S.

I did some research on here through some old posts and through some other sites but I’ve been seeing some conflicting info. Some people printing super slow around 15mms-40mms and others printing at 60 or higher. Bed temps varying between 70 and 100. Nozzle temps between 270 and 300. Cooling fans on and running the entire time or fans turned off like printing PA6-CF.

Anyone got any info?

I'm planning a Fossberg 500 (space trench) build and saw under "thick receivers" there's two options. 3 prong and 4 prong. Anyone know what the differences are? I've looked them over and can't tell. TIA!

I want to build a complete DIY 9mm. I currently have 42crmo 16OD/8.3ID 300mm steel tube and as far as I know it is perfect for fgc-9. Any other recommendations, maybe a handgun?

Hey All,

Went to the range the other day to finally test my DB Alloy build. Before I ever got to the shooting phase, I had issues with the printed Sten mags, so I decided to buy a few surplus mags from Atlantic Firearms. So I got my mags, polished them up, put a little lube around the follower and what not. The mags work fine outside the gun itself.

Got to the range, loaded up my mags, and when I pulled the charging handle, it seems like it is double feeding. The bolt charges two bullets instead of the one. Whatever, tried another mag, same thing. I'm thinking this is on the mags.

Any suggestions?

I have a new mp22k build and for whatever reason I cannot get it to set off any rounds. I've tried multiple brands and all I get are dimpled cases and no pew sound. I'm pretty sure it's my firing pin but it looks the same as the other two builds that do work. Should I file it down to a point or leave it like it came from scs?