Was talking with a few people about the UBAR3 and using a M5 nut in a recessed pocket for the grip screw. Looking at the files there are about ten different versions of the UBAR3 but I couldn't find anything about the differences? The file names are clear as mud.
I used those magazines in another project, the printed ones failed before two full mags. The ones with metal feed lips lasted quite a while, even left loaded in climate controlled area. They only met their demise when I forgot they were in the hot car.
Yes, corrected it
There's a hole close to where the sear goes but it's not in the exact location.
Wouldn't be too hard to mod the selector for three position binary, but getting a FRT work will take a lot of time on both the frame and the trigger housing.
The plastikov has features which make it look like a FA sear could be made to work but, it won't fit as is. FA also requires a factory FA selector to hold the FA disconnector tail down.
Yep the feed lips, the mags are slightly different height and as soon as the shorter one finished the taller one started having issues. Not only did it shift but it also became very glossy at the same layer height.
I had been using default settings in orca, which worked until they didn't.
The standard AKSS cam rotates on the factory selector which is not used in the plastikov, and other parts of the plastikov frame are in the way. You would need a complete redesign to get an FRT.
You could use a standard AK binary, but you would be stuck with two position. Three position requires a standard FA AK selector.
I've been doing it for years, just never used bacon grease 🐖
I've had good luck using default settings until printing tall boys. I know doing two at once probably isn't the best idea but it did help to show that my issue presents itself when there is a drastic drop in layer time.
Using orca, any recommendations for setting fan speed@ height when using PLA plus?
Issue has ONLY occurred when printing tall mags, close to 250mm tall.
Here I am saving my pennies for something else and you keep posting about this. 
This is the only one I know of for the vmac .45, but fusion and clicks are free 🤠
I'm really not sure of any cross compatibility. I'm about as Mac ignorant as you can get
Are there any other .45 upper options? Anyone know if the vmac bolt has features to activate a trip bar like the 9mm does?
I've got a .45 itch to scratch. I'm Mac dumb.
Yep, and they have the right amount of goofyness
Good job man, I know it was both a mess and a highly desired project.
Remix of RG3D prints ACR style stock for direct fit on Cetme C or G3. First version came out higher than I thought it would. Basically impossible to aim with irons. Next version is 15mm lower and there is still the option to use the built in cheek riser.
I'm very happy with this trip bar geometry, most consistent results yet with repeatable release timing. It's probably a little late but working and I'd rather err on the safe side.
Need to finish the CAD for the metal trip bar now that I know the starting length and get that coming. Surprisingly the plastic held up, much better than expected.
Also need to start over with a fresh hammer and try and get a profile that works without welding. I had the hammer good with a big ass shark fin welded on but I found the limit trying to trim it down.
Cheap and fun.
Guide for locating your FCG and selector holes in a bent AK blank. Also has trunnion holes which I DON'T recommend using. I have a separate fixture for those.
SOT only hole included, don't use this hole unless you are licensed to do so. Stay safe and legal.
Reposting here.
This fixture holds your front 23mm AK trunnion or fixed stock rear trunnion to locate your rivet holes in a bent blank or receiver. My Odyssee also has a short video on how it works.
Reposting here.
https://odysee.com/%40Sticky:9/AK-trunnion-rivet-drill-guide:c
Ah, I didn't have much time to read and skimmed it and missed it. Doesn't sound like anything that affects the grip nut.... Thanks!