this post was submitted on 12 Oct 2025

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ASA frame failure (i.redd.it)

submitted 1 month ago by noah@fosscad.io to c/ark@fosscad.io

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Originally posted by u/Ok-Blood8662 at 2025-06-30T21:50:55Z

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Was hoping I got good enough layer adhesion here, and I may have, but cracks formed at the pin holes.

Fortunately did not have this happen while firing. I noticed the cracks when inspecting the gun at my desk, flexed it, and it completely snapped.

Figured I would share as an example to others. Filament choice is super important in 3D2A. Be careful.

Source: https://i.redd.it/cm8nb5w9y4af1.jpeg

Source: https://b.thumbs.redditmedia.com/Hvop_ukpbveaGUcW1rK6eqQQ2dwiHHpLgQBXvciEnEw.jpg

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[–] noah@fosscad.io 1 points 1 month ago (2 children)

u/Somebodysomeone_926 · 2025-06-30 22:59:11 UTC · score 8

Why did you think it would?
These are your viable options.

PLA plus Pa6cf nylon Pa612cf nylon Pa12cf Nylon Pa6gf Nylon Pet-gf (glass filled PET, not the same as petg) Pet-cf

Ppacf and ppacf are TBD as far as I can tell

[–] noah@fosscad.io 1 points 1 month ago (1 children)

u/Ok-Blood8662 · 2025-06-30 23:02:44 UTC · score 1

Im aware of the viable options. Ive seen success stories with Asa. Wasn't equipped for nylon yet so asa was the next best thing in my mind for heat resistance.

[–] noah@fosscad.io 1 points 1 month ago

u/Somebodysomeone_926 · 2025-06-30 23:08:51 UTC · score 3

Do what you want but personally I wouldn't fire one by hand. Tape it to a tree and pull a string

[–] noah@fosscad.io 1 points 1 month ago

u/Objective_Care_9401 · 2025-06-30 23:56:27 UTC · score -6

Is PETG-CF a viable option too since PLA+ and other cf filaments are?

[–] noah@fosscad.io 1 points 1 month ago (3 children)

u/K1RBY87 · 2025-06-30 22:01:17 UTC · score 70

Not that it likely makes a huge difference. But did you ream the holes before driving the pins or did you just send it?

[–] noah@fosscad.io 1 points 1 month ago

u/Ok-Blood8662 · 2025-06-30 22:07:33 UTC · score 21

Yes, always drill my holes.

[–] noah@fosscad.io 1 points 1 month ago

u/-250smacks · 2025-06-30 22:05:54 UTC · score 13

That’s what I was going to ask

[–] noah@fosscad.io 1 points 1 month ago (1 children)

u/No-Psychology3577 · 2025-06-30 22:07:52 UTC · score 10

Do you have too, even if you can insert the pins without any trouble ? I would completely understand reaming, if the holes gave the maker any trouble

[–] noah@fosscad.io 1 points 1 month ago

u/K1RBY87 · 2025-06-30 22:57:49 UTC · score 23

It is generally good practice. holes that are 3D printed rarely are circular, or the correct dimensions. If you force a pin through it will displace the material, but it puts stress along the layer lines which can be the start to a crack.

[–] noah@fosscad.io 1 points 1 month ago (2 children)

u/Klutzy_Ear_3897 · 2025-06-30 21:53:07 UTC · score 6

What kind of asa did you use, have had absolutely no issues with polymaker Asa in any of my builds with rounds through them, make sure you print with absolutely no fans on and heating the chamber prior really helps, looks like it coulda been a layer adhesion issue

[–] noah@fosscad.io 2 points 1 month ago (1 children)

u/RustyShacklefordVR2 · 2025-06-30 21:59:47 UTC · score 9

That ain't layer adhesion, all the fissures cross layer lines. And the edges and overhangs definitely look like they were printed with no part cooling.

ASA just isn't different enough from ABS to be advisable for frames.

[–] noah@fosscad.io 1 points 1 month ago (1 children)

u/Ok-Blood8662 · 2025-06-30 22:12:13 UTC · score 3

My thoughts as well. I did my research and tuned my settings to get the best results with my test prints. Probably just the cheap blend I got.

[–] noah@fosscad.io 1 points 1 month ago

u/RustyShacklefordVR2 · 2025-06-30 22:25:35 UTC · score 6

I'm just mad the Elegoo ASA isn't available anymore. That shit was $15/kg all day erry day.

[–] noah@fosscad.io 1 points 1 month ago

u/Ok-Blood8662 · 2025-06-30 22:10:47 UTC · score 1

Can't remember what brand specifically. Generic brand for sure. Id have more faith in polymakers blend.

I preheated my chamber, set my build plate to 100c and print at 270c. All fans off.

[–] noah@fosscad.io 1 points 1 month ago (2 children)

u/thehumanvirusttv · 2025-06-30 22:18:38 UTC · score -4

Damn I have a 17 in PLA plus and now I’m worried to shoots it haha

[–] noah@fosscad.io 1 points 1 month ago

u/Ok-Blood8662 · 2025-06-30 22:21:28 UTC · score 1

Pla plus is fine man, thats the standard (other than pa6cf).

[–] noah@fosscad.io 1 points 1 month ago (1 children)

u/Real_men_drive_t34s · 2025-06-30 22:34:20 UTC · score 11

This hobby was built on the back of PLA+. You're safe as long as you have everything calibrated.

[–] noah@fosscad.io 1 points 1 month ago (1 children)

u/thehumanvirusttv · 2025-06-30 22:39:56 UTC · score 3

That’s what I assumed I’m hoping esun pla plus is aight I was gonna make one in fde polymaker pro just in case but it seems to be dialed in. No weird layer shifts or stuff like that (still waiting on my Patmos revelation to be shipped) we will see den haha

[–] noah@fosscad.io 1 points 1 month ago (1 children)

u/Real_men_drive_t34s · 2025-06-30 22:49:05 UTC · score 1

Oh yeah Esun pla+ is fine. I prefer polymaker since they seem more 2A aligned. But I wouldn't have an issue loading Esun and printing with it.

[–] noah@fosscad.io 1 points 1 month ago

u/thehumanvirusttv · 2025-06-30 22:58:31 UTC · score 1

Yeah I really liked the esun black and grey but I got some fde and metallic black I wanna try out after I’m done printing this orca haha. Want to reprint the v2 in fde I feel it would look a lot better lmfao. I just haven’t done enough testing on other brands other then these two to test strength and durability unfortunately