Originally posted by u/Ok-Blood8662 at 2025-06-30T21:50:55Z
Was hoping I got good enough layer adhesion here, and I may have, but cracks formed at the pin holes.
Fortunately did not have this happen while firing. I noticed the cracks when inspecting the gun at my desk, flexed it, and it completely snapped.
Figured I would share as an example to others. Filament choice is super important in 3D2A. Be careful.
Source: https://i.redd.it/cm8nb5w9y4af1.jpeg
Source: https://b.thumbs.redditmedia.com/Hvop_ukpbveaGUcW1rK6eqQQ2dwiHHpLgQBXvciEnEw.jpg
u/thehumanvirusttv · 2025-06-30 22:18:38 UTC · score -4
Damn I have a 17 in PLA plus and now I’m worried to shoots it haha
u/Ok-Blood8662 · 2025-06-30 22:21:28 UTC · score 1
Pla plus is fine man, thats the standard (other than pa6cf).
u/Real_men_drive_t34s · 2025-06-30 22:34:20 UTC · score 11
This hobby was built on the back of PLA+. You're safe as long as you have everything calibrated.
u/thehumanvirusttv · 2025-06-30 22:39:56 UTC · score 3
That’s what I assumed I’m hoping esun pla plus is aight I was gonna make one in fde polymaker pro just in case but it seems to be dialed in. No weird layer shifts or stuff like that (still waiting on my Patmos revelation to be shipped) we will see den haha
u/Real_men_drive_t34s · 2025-06-30 22:49:05 UTC · score 1
Oh yeah Esun pla+ is fine. I prefer polymaker since they seem more 2A aligned. But I wouldn't have an issue loading Esun and printing with it.
u/thehumanvirusttv · 2025-06-30 22:58:31 UTC · score 1
Yeah I really liked the esun black and grey but I got some fde and metallic black I wanna try out after I’m done printing this orca haha. Want to reprint the v2 in fde I feel it would look a lot better lmfao. I just haven’t done enough testing on other brands other then these two to test strength and durability unfortunately