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PPA-CF vs PA6-CF?
Does anyone have experience printing PPA-CF and PA6-CF? I had read that "PPA-CF is 48% stronger" than PA6 if you get good layer adhesion, but I'm seeing conflicting info regarding impact resistance. Anyone have input who's printed and used both?
I was confused then, I just tried looking up the Bravo0016 account earlier and it said the user has been banned.
I don't know buddy, because its letting me post and comment and like stuff but doesn't let people click on my name.
It's definitely odd, but at least you can use the account.
Out of curiosity, how are you drying nylons and keeping them dried in storage? I'm about to pick up a P1S and have your settings saved, mainly looking at PA6-CF and PET-GF initially. I've seen lots of suggestions for drying, ranging from a goodwill airfryer up to a vacuum chamber. Im looking at the Sunlu E2 as it can reach 110C to be used for annealing as well, but $360 is a bit steep for it.
Also, with the finished PA6-CF being susceptible to moisture and losing some of its strength, do you ever seal it, or is it strong enough over time without needing to? I was wondering if cerakote would be a good choice for keeping moisture out, but I haven't found much on the topic.
I have a Septree dehydrator that I got off Amazon. It's the smaller white one that's like 70 bucks and then I dry at 190F for 48hrs. Once it's dry I take it out of the dehydrator and put it in my Sunlu S4 and print from it at 70c. Or you can get a Lazy Susan for the dehydrator and drill a hole through the side and tap a Ptfe fitting in it so that you can run a Ptfe tube straight from the dehydrator. Cerakote works perfect for keeping moisture out of the print and also keeps the tiny CF/GF pieces from getting embedded into your hands.