as Kopsis pointed out, the only real comparison that makes sense is the TDS.
confuzled
You need to remove material from the front leg of the trigger timing bar until you get clean bolt cycling. Ensure everything is lubricated. Then, once the bolt cycles, perform a function test starting with the safety. Once you establish that the safety is functional, attempt to function test in SEMI. It will likely reset the trigger. Slowly remove material from the same front leg until it no longer resets in SEMI. Then complete a full function check of all positions.
this isnt how you time/tune a kabuto.
Timing/tuning should be done on the trigger timing bar (formerly called the "activator"). You remove material from the front leg of the timing bar, until it cycles in SEMI and no longer resets.
qidi/fusrock/phaetus are all the same so if you want their PET/PPA just buy whatever is cheaper. I still haven't found anything that beats the price/perf of sirayatech though.
debt is bad guns are good. Don't carry debt so you can buy guns!!!
If you think it's diminishing returns to go from PM pet-cf to bambu lab pet-cf, why would you choose it over Sirayatech, which is more performant than PMs offering AND much cheaper? You can get PET-CF from ST for 37-34$/kg vs 25$/.5KG (50$/kg).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6qOrv_r-rKU
PM comes in last in every test except for Impact Resistance (which is a fail) and price (because they used the 3kg price.
The PM offering was designed with printability over performance and comes in last place in creep, 3-point bending resistance, tensile, layer adhesion (enclosed)
Where is ST Pet-cf is the cheapest tested and basically always comes in either 2nd or tied for 2nd.
FRT are not "NFA compliant" so that section doesnt apply at all. However, this law is specifically why I pushed the various kabuto/turd devs to shift the naming scheme from "activator" to "trigger timing bar".
If i remember correctly the whole point of the drink can mods was an "in plan sight" suppressor.
I also approve this message. Confuzled is a piece of shit
https://guncadindex.com/detail/Reworked_TURD:4 By Jericho (Steel) Great remix that allows way easier removal.
(also...BUY FILAMENT!! only 30 Rolls left until its gone forever)
Easy 22 build is the EZ22
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Venturing out into engineering filaments should happen after you learn how to tune your printer and filament profile. It will stop you from needing to ask other people how best to print filament on your machine. Ellis' tuning guide has the most in-depth tuning rhetoric that exists and you can use it as a framework on your end